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Make the rest of the anchors. When all dry they are strongest after curing for a week bury
them in the ground with the loop in the steel rod just above the ground surface. The anchors must
be placed far enough away from the rotor frame so the guy wires can exert a good pull against
movements in the structure but not so far away that the wires are too long and elastic.
Attach guy wires good, strong wire or cable to the anchor loops and to screw eyes (or some
other type of strong connector) placed near the tops of the tall vertical frame supports (make sure
to attach them below the point where the supports will be cut off to correctly position the top
bearing support beam when the rotor is in place).
Make them tight enough now to keep the rotor frame in position while installing the rotor, but
not so tight that they pull the top ends of the tall vertical supports away from each other.
Turnbuckles along the wires will help you adjust the wires for maximum tightness after installing
the rotor into the frame.
Remove the bottom bearing support beam, with bearing attached, from the rotor assembly.Place
it horizontally between the tall vertical frame supports with the ends resting on the top ends of
the shorter vertical supports. Hold in position and drill holes for large wood screws through the
tall vertical supports and into each end of the beam.Screw the beam into place.
On the rotor assembly, measure the distance from the bottom surface of the collar on the bottom
bearing end piece to the bottom surface of the top bearing support beam, which is in place on the
pipe shaft.
Add the thickness of the bottom bearing housing to this figure.Mark off the distance of this total
measurement on each tall vertical frame support, starting upwards from the top surface of the
bottom bearing support beam.Cut off the top of each vertical support squarely at this mark.